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Producer Profile - Nervi Conterno - Gattinara - Piedmont

I have to confess - I have sadly NOT tried Roberto Conterno's iconic Giacomo Conterno'  Monfortino' Barolo. It is one of the most wickedly expensive and rarest wines on the planet. The wine arrives in Australia in microscopic quantities and swiftly vanishes into the cellars of radical wine lovers and collectors, where it usually lives in a cool dark place for the next 20 years before it is opened.

However, I have been lucky enough to drink and enjoy the astounding wines of Nervi Conterno in Gattinara (Roberto's other project in North West Piedmont), which are also rare but a lot more affordable. In fact, given the prestige of Roberto Conterno in the International wine landscape, the Nervi Conterno wines remain relative bargains. The Cru Wines, in particular, will age for at least 20 years or longer.

Here is Vinous Wine Writer and Italian Expert Antonio Galloni's view on Nervi's acquisition by Roberto Conterno:

"There is no question that the most exciting development in Alto Piemonte is Roberto Conterno's recent acquisition of Nervi in Gattinara. Nervi is the oldest winery in Gattinara and owns several choice vineyards, including Molsino… Roberto Conterno could have done any project anywhere in the world. His bet is on Italy, Piedmont and Nebbiolo. That is such a strong statement. Moreover, Nervi, which Conterno will run with his two young sons, Niccolò and Gabriele, sets up his family with a diversifying asset for the next generation, which is quite forward-looking in a world in which historic family-owned estates are now real businesses that are subject to market forces that did not exist up until very recently."

While writing this, I am drinking/tasting Nervi Conterno's Gattinara 2017. It is a beautiful, hauntingly delicate Nebbiolo with all the finesse you'd expect from Roberto Conterno and this high elevation mountainous region, albeit with a touch more sweet fruit in the warmer 2017 season, which makes it irresistible to drink even now. It's a blend of four plots, including Casacce, Garavoglie and the renowned sites of Molino and Valferana. It is fermented in stainless steel prior to 30 months maturation in Stockinger large-format Botti. One of the reasons it is so good is that Roberto did not bottle his Cru wines in 2017, with these prized plots going into the standard Gattinara instead. Such is the integrity of this legendary producer.

My last insider's tip is that the Nervi Conterno Cru Molsino 2016 was drunk here in Brisbane out of magnums at a party last weekend hosted by a great Wine Experience customer, and the comment was that it was 'fantastic…". So although the commentary in the review by Antonio Galloni we are providing calls it 'an absolute jewel of a wine' and recommends extending bottle ageing, it seems it is already beautiful and approachable, even now. Unfortunately, there are only six bottles available.

Finally, I could launch into the Nervi Conterno story, but I don't think anyone says it better than the importer of this incredible producer. So here's PJ's notes below…

"Roberto Conterno's admiration of the Nebbiolo wines from the tiny (65 hectares) Gattinara appellation has been given dramatic illustration by his recent purchase of the original Gattinara producer, Nervi. Having spent a great deal of time in this north-western Piedmont region over recent years, Roberto has become very familiar with the lay of the land and its lean, minerally soils.

Nervi's production of Gattinara started in the first few years following 1900, and it is regarded as the oldest cantina in the area. Over the years, Nervi has learnt how to tame the typically high-acid, high-tannin grapes of the region's clone of Nebbiolo, Spanna – long-term ageing is the key, with maturation (often much longer than the mandatary DOCG regulations) in large format Slavonian botti. 

Nestled amongst the foothills of Monterosa, Gattinara was established as a DOC in 1967 and gained DOCG status in 1990, although Gattinara has mainly been a wine for those in the know. If you've tried a Nervi or Antoniolo Gattinara from superior vintages, like 1961, '64, '78, '96 or '97, for example – and they have occasionally been seen here – you will know they clearly rival Langhe Nebbiolo. Roberto Conterno certainly thinks so. In fact, Conterno's purchase is a 90% share, and in his typical wisdom, he's keen to retain existing local contact and expertise, encouraging previous owners the Astrup family and the winemaker Enrico Filippo – with his experience of 30 plus Gattinara vintages – to remain. Vineyard man Ettore Bornite, at Nervi since 1973, is staying on as well. It's important to note that although the sale occurred earlier this year, Roberto has had a close relationship with the Astrup family for many years, having assisted and given them advice since 2011."

Cheers 

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