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Pinot Gris vs Pinot Grigio

With so many grape varieties out there, you can be forgiven for being a little confused about the difference between Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio.  It’s a question we get asked a lot instore.  So what is the difference?

The short and simple answer is that Pinot Gris (don’t forget the ‘s’ is silent) and Pinot Grigio are the same variety, the only difference being Gris is French and Grigio is Italian, both meaning grey.  As you can see in the picture below, the berries aren’t really grey, they are more pink/copper in colour. But why would anyone call a grape variety grey?   

To understand this, we need to go back further into the history of this variety.  Did you know that  Pinot Gris (grey/pink skinned), is genetically identical to Pinot Noir (dark-skinned), Pinot Meunier (dark-skinned) and Pinot Blanc (light-skinned), as defined by standard DNA profiling and therefore a mutation of the ancient variety called simply ‘Pinot’?  It is a little known fact that black, grey and green berries have been found to occur on the same Pinot vine.  Here is a picture of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc berries on the same bunch. 

So now we know that Pinot Gris is the same as Pinot Grigio, which is a colour mutation of the ancient variety Pinot.   Did I mention understanding grape varieties can get confusing?  This does not, however, help us understand why under Australian wine law, a wine made from Pinot Gris can also be labelled Pinot Grigio at the winemaker’s discretion.   

As much as I love the history of grape varieties, none of this is particularly helpful in understanding what seeing Pinot Gris or Grigio means on a wine label in Australia or New Zealand.  

So here we need to understand that the term used on the label is the winemaker giving an indication of the style of the wine.  Is it riper, fuller, lush and textured, with hints of sweetness as in the Alsace region of France or more neutral, dry, fresh and zesty like the majority of inexpensive Italian style Pinot Grigios?

What to expect with Pinot Gris.  Pronunciation: (Pee-noh gree)

Pinot Gris from Alsace is yellow/gold in colour, aromatically complex and full of luscious, ripe flavours like ripe pear, honey, gingerbread, apricot and even hints of smoke.   In the mouth, it’s a full-bodied white wine with soft, even oily textures and hints of sweetness.  A well-priced and delicious wine in this style is the Joseph Cattin Pinot Gris or for something a little more complex, try the Hugel Classic Pinot Gris

When seen on a bottle of wine from New Zealand, Pinot Gris is almost always off-dry with noticeable sweetness but still refreshing acidity.  It has become of New Zealand’s favourite white wines, after Sauvignon Blanc of course.  

A great example is Kumeu Estate Pinot Gris from just north of Auckland.   This wine is by far and away our most popular New Zealand Pinot Gris, in a word, rich, complex and delicious, with a perfect balance between acidity and sweetness.  Would you expect anything less from New Zealand’s first Master of Wine (MW) Michael Brajkovich?   Another great value example I can recommend is the Haha Pinot Gris from Hawkes Bay. 

Australian examples of Pinot Gris are usually dryer than from across the ditch, but still with the full weight and softly textured mouthfeel the variety is known for.  Our favourites are Kooyong Beurrot Pinot Gris and The Other Wine Co from the Adelaide Hills.  In terms of food, Pinot Gris can be matched with more richly flavoured dishes and ripe soft cheeses or Bleasdale from the Adelaide Hills for a lighter, fresher style at a very fair price, not to mention 95 Points from James Halliday. 

What to expect with Pinot Grigio

Pinot Grigio in Italy has been a huge success over the last twenty years.  When I was selling wine in London back in 2007-2008, it was on almost every restaurant and bar wine list by the glass and people could not get enough.  The majority of wines could best be described as lightweight, neutral in flavour, fresh and inexpensive.  

As one Aussie winemaker once said to me, “white paint on a white canvas”.  At the bottom end of the market, this certainly can be true, but there are excellent examples of Pinot Grigio produced in both the Fruli and Alto Adige regions of Italy.   Breganze Savardo Pinot Grigio is well worth trying. 

In Australia, a wine labelled Pinot Grigio is usually dry, crisp and refreshing.  A good example is Smith & Hooper from Wrattonbully in South Australia.  These wines are perfectly matched to the cooler climate and cannot be beaten when matched to fresh seafood and aromatic Thai dishes.   

The Cheat Sheet 

1. Pinot Gris and Grigio are genetically the same variety  
2. Don’t forget the ‘s’ in Gris is silent (Pee-noh gree)
3. Pinot Gris is French
4. Pinot Grigio is Italian
5. In Australia and NZ, the producer's choice of Pinot Gris vs Pinot Grigio is a strong indication of wine stye 
6. Gris = Rich, aromatic and lush with some sweetness
7. Grigio = Crisp, dry and neutral 

Cheers Scott 

SHOP PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO